Copper Jewelry

Copper Jewelry

copper jewelry

Renoir, and later Matisse, specialized in hand-worked, solid copper jewelry, made in the spirit of the Arts and Crafts movement of the late 19th century and early 20th century, but in more modern geometric or abstract forms and patterns.

The company—Renoir of Hollywood—was founded in 1946 by Jerry Fels (born 1917), who had trained at the Art Students' League and at the National Academy of Design in New York, along with Curt Freiler and Nat Zausner.

copper jewelry

The company's name was changed in about 1948 to Renoir of California. Some time later, Renoir turned to mass production, but the high-quality copper finish, for which the company had become known, was never compromised.



 The most popular Renoir necklace is probably the graduated fringe design. A cuff bracelet, available in various designs using swirls, loops, and geometric shapes, is also extremely collectable. Designs are typically linear and geometric, some inspired by primitive art. Some pieces may be complemented with black enamel.

Matisse Ltd was established as a subsidiary company in 1952. The pieces produced under this name were also made from copper, but decoratcd with colourful enamels.

copper jewelry

Many pieces, particularly the pins, were created in more naturalistic forms, such as leaves and artists' palettes. Of these, the red, green, or white maple leaf pin isLike the Cartier panther, Lane often created replicas of classic designs by the great jewelers such as Bulgari and Cartier.



 His creations are pieces of unbelievable opulence and magnificence, re­created in non-precious materials, yet they remain stunningly beautiful.



These pieces were instrumental in persuading the jet set that costume jewelry was en vogue. Through the 1980s, when Lane started designing for Avon, and the 1990s, when he re-issued his "Jewels of India" line for sale via television shopping channel QVC, he continued to have a huge impact on the costume jewelry market.

copper jewelry

His "Big Cats" pins are highly collectible today. Similarly sought after are other figural pieces, such as the ram's head, the walrus, the mermaid, and the chameleon. 











Enameled figural work is also especially desirable. Lane's classic pieces, which include chandelier earrings and opulent paste necklaces such as the one shown above, are also av idly collected.

Lane's designs dating from before the 1970s are marked "K.J.L." and arc highly collectible.

copper jewelry

 After the late 1970s, they are signed "Kenneth Jay Lane" one of the most famous and collectible. Other designs incorporated atomic or space themes, such as the Polaris pin.






 Renoir's pieces had largely been inexpensive (selling generally below the $10 |£5] mark), but Matisse jewellery was more costly, because of the enameling process. Many pieces are signed (some with both company names), and these are likely to be more desirable than unsigned pieces.

copper jewelry

Gradually, the pieces produced by both companies became more abstract and streamlined, until production of both ceased in 1964.

The early  fashion for simple, A-line dresses, worn with elaborate jewelry, may have contributed to the decline in popularity for the firm's designs.

However, some of the Matisse ideals were continued in Curtis Jere, a company founded in the late 1950s by Pels and Frelier (the name being a contraction of their first names).



 At their California studio, Artisan House, they designed and hand-made wall sculptures and household accessories, many of which were in copper.



 Continuing the high standard of their art  Copper Jewelry  Curtis Jere aimed to produce "gallery quality art for the masses." In 1972 they sold the company, which continues to produce sculptures.

Pieces were typically signed "Renoir" or "Matisse Renoir" and a copyright symbol was added after 1955.