Marcel Boucher
part one
Known as one of the finest costume jewelry makers of the 20th century, Marcel Boucher was trained at Cartier in Paris. His skills as a precious jeweler can be seen in his costume pieces.
Boucher was born in Paris, France, in 1898 and was an
apprentice model-maker at Cartier by the late 1910s. In 1922, he was
transferred to the company's New York City office, where he honed his skills.However, the Wall Street Crash of 1929 forced him to find work with other firms, many of which were working in costume jewelry, a growth industry thanks to its more affordable materials and products.
He began designing buckles and jewelry pieces for Mazer Brothers on a freelance basis and designed his first line of costume jewelry in 1936, before starting his own company, Boucher et Cie, in 1937.
Boucher got his break in 1939, with a lucrative order from
Saks Fifth Avenue for a series of six three-dimensional bird pins.
The designs were a departure from the rigorous geometry of the Art Deco period, taking sweeping, organic forms, and highlighting them with rhinestones and bright enamels.
The designs were a departure from the rigorous geometry of the Art Deco period, taking sweeping, organic forms, and highlighting them with rhinestones and bright enamels.
Subsequently the company became known for producing
innovative designs of exceptional quality.
Typical features include intricate metalwork; the use of rhinestones selected for their similarity in hue and cut to that of real gems as well as top quality faux pearls; and bright, almost translucent, enamel work.
Typical features include intricate metalwork; the use of rhinestones selected for their similarity in hue and cut to that of real gems as well as top quality faux pearls; and bright, almost translucent, enamel work.
Boucher's often unconventional animal pins have always been
popular. His early pieces arc rare, and include highly stylized birds of paradise, praying mantises, and other natural forms, such as flowers
. A series of'night and day' flowers that open and close their petals is particularly desirable.
Also sought after are Boucher's clown pins and a pelican pin, with its articulated beak opening to catch a fish. More common designs include poodle and kitten pins from the 1950s, and the birds and turtles of the late 1960s and early 1970s.
SEE PART 2 OF THIS REVIEW
popular. His early pieces arc rare, and include highly stylized birds of paradise, praying mantises, and other natural forms, such as flowers
. A series of'night and day' flowers that open and close their petals is particularly desirable.
Also sought after are Boucher's clown pins and a pelican pin, with its articulated beak opening to catch a fish. More common designs include poodle and kitten pins from the 1950s, and the birds and turtles of the late 1960s and early 1970s.
SEE PART 2 OF THIS REVIEW
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